I’ve returned to Korea after a 12-year hiatus. The more things have changed, the more things have stayed the same. That about sums it up. Beautiful weather of late, here in Mokpo. It’s 10 degrees and sunny today, mid January!
The won is weaker. The country in general is more prosperous and organized. The population is more elderly. The birthrate is barely above zero. But these things you can find out looking at the World Almanac.
What I’d like to talk about are the little things, those fine details about Koreans that make them who they are. The things you may not figure out, notice, even if being here for a short visit.
I’m kind of always an undercover anthropologist and I love sitting and just watching people. It’s a nice talent to have. I’m never bored. I can just sit and sit and notice, connect the dots, so long as I have living things around me.
Over these last few days, I’ve noticed some things about Koreans that set them apart. Here are some of them, some things you won’t find in any guidebook. I reserve the right to be completely wrong! Just my own observations, no absolutes intended.
Koreans like to hit things. Where I live, there are so many “screen golf” places. Baseball cages. Boxing bag rooms. Even rage rooms - where you pay a pretty penny to smash up stuff.
If you are male and over 40, you probably smoke and smoke a lot. You seldom see an older Korean man without a cigarette in his fingers or one dangling from the mouth.
Pork. Koreans have taken this to the next level with “samgyeopsal” or pork belly. 90% of the worldwide production is consumed by Koreans. Watch Chef Paik’s series on Netflix - Pork Belly Rapsody for a wonderful history about how this has come about only in recent decades.
Koreans aren’t too big on using please and thank you or you’re welcome. The niceties. It’s not that they aren’t gracious, it just isn’t necessarily worded out loud.
Cashless society. Korea is becoming one. So much you can’t do with cash and it is no longer king in Korea.
Phones. Echoing the above point. Without a phone, you aren’t Korean. You need your phone for everything, almost all is done, including your identification, through your phone number. Your phone number IS your social identification number.
Little dogs. It’s crazy! But I guess it is logical given that 99.99% of Koreans live in apartment buildings. It’s an apartment culture. So, very few large dogs. Our dog Viernes is medium size and a happy girl. But take her for a walk and Koreans scatter like she’s Godzilla!
South Koreans don’t hate North Korea. It’s a different dynamic than you think. There will never, unless far into the future, be different types of Koreans. S. Koreans dream of a day where they are reunited as one. The only hatred is of the regime, no the people of North Korea.
There are few elderly Korean men with gray hair. It’s rare to meet one. In the barbershops and saunas (where a man can get a cut), it’s about $10 bucks for a color job.
Cars - you’ll only see black, gray or white vehicles. It’s rare to see any other color. Don’t have a clue why but it is what it is. Same with outer clothing, Koreans aren’t big on bright colors.
Baking. In my personal opinion, Koreans can’t bake. Don’t come here for good bread or cheese or expect to pay through the nose for it. But it is probably for a reason, few Korean homes have an oven.
Coffee shops. When I last lived here, you couldn’t get a good coffee. Anywhere except the machines in the subway that nobody used (but me - such a great idea). Now, coffee is found everywhere. I really don’t know how so many cafes can exist and sustain themselves financially. Something going on there. But lots of coffee to be had.
Barefeet. Can one of my readers tell me what is up with Koreans walking, hiking in the dead of winter barefoot? There is even a special clay track near my place where people walk around and around it barefooted. I hike the small mountain trails here a lot - I often encounter people walking the trails barfooted. Also, I’ve met quite a few people, early mornings half naked, rubbing themselves against trees. What’s up with this? Please let me know. Some kind of pagan animism?
So there you have it, just a few observations off the top of my head.
Sincerely,
David, the anthropologist from Mars.
Oh, forgot to mention this biggee - Jeong (정). An important aspect of Korean culture.
Koreans Unplugged