I traveled to Taiwan this time last year. I enjoyed it except for the fact I was deathly sick and unable to eat for most of the 3 weeks there. I told myself - I have to come back here and cycle. So, this week, I did. View the YouTube summary!
It was a short trip, a week only but long enough to warm up and empty my head and be amazed by this beautiful country. The friendliness of the people, the ease of travel, the variety and beauty of its nature (cities - not so much, same as them anywhere), just blew my mind.
I had no set itinerary. I landed and picked up my rental bike at Mathew Bikes the next day. Wow - top knotch people, mechanics. Can’t sing their praise enough and they even checked in on me by messenger during my journey.
Here is a summary of my trip with some short commentary. View the slideshow »»
Day 1. Taipei to Yilan.
I got the bike and headed out of Taipei toward Keeling (great “night market” - Anthony Bourdain even visited it for its famous dishes). North on a huge, well maintained bike path. I hit the heavy north headwind that would be there the whole week. And light rain. The north of the island, Taipei north, gets a lot of rain. But once out of that area, you’ll usually find pleasant skies.
I found the north coast and skirted small highways until hitting Route 2 and the coastal highway, getting used to the bike. It was a little small but ok. A Taiwanese bike “Performer”. I’d never heard of the company before but it had a 34t cassette on the back - enough so I could get up the mountains.
I checked into a great hotel in Yilan and got ready for the big day and true start of my adventure in the morning. The goal - Wuling Pass, 3,275m up there.
Day 2. Yilan To Lishan. Route 7.
I set off at 6am, still dark, following the river valley up into the mountains heading south. The road throughout the morning started to dry and the views were spectacular. Cabbage field and farm land. Soon the road began to really climb and I hit many switchbacks. Fog, fog and fog, all the way to Siyaun Pass nearing 2,000m. After this, beauty really amped up. The air cleared and I descended to Wuling Farm, passing hikers, barking dogs and gorgeous views of cliffs and mountain forests.
I hadn’t done a lot of climbing on my bike prior but found the going pretty easy. I just monitored my breathing and never went to any limit. Know thy body. From years of competitive sport - I’m pretty good at that. In fact, the whole trip, I was filled with energy, waking up each morning early, not stiff, roaring to go. Hunger for the bike.
The last 30 k the valleys were more open and I hit the high mountain town of Lishan. It seems to be quite a popular tourist town with a gorgeous guesthouse.
I hit the Family Mart and warmed up with a coffee and some fuel. Spicy hard boiled eggs! Man, O man, they kept me going. It was still fairly early, about 2:30pm. I chatted with the locals sitting outside and they all had a huddle and then confronted me, telling me not to head out of town this late. Wuling Pass “too big!”. It was getting colder, sun goes down early in the mountains, so I set out to find a hotel. It was a good call.
Day 3. Lishan - Wuling Pass - Puli.
The trip just kept getting better and better. Early 6am start. The owner of the hotel said they were only letting vehicles head out of town at 6,8 and 10am. Lots of construction, road work - due to last years’ devastating earthquake. Toroko Gorge, the park I would pass through is still officially closed.
I descended rapidly from Lishan and the started climbing. I hit the tunnel, a single track the takes you to the other side of Taroko to Route 14a Dayuling. And from there - it is 10km to the top. Many parts hitting 25% grade.
I slowly made my way up. Slowly the trees gave way to grass. Slowly, it got colder and colder, finally below 0. And the wind got worse and worse and worse … It would pick up both me and the bike and push us a few feet over in the road. Then I’d correct the bike and push ahead. My hands froze into blocks. Truly, black and blue (and I had two pairs of gloves on). I didn’t stick around long at the top. Just a quick shot of the marker there - 3,275m.
I did see 3 beautiful yellow throated martens and a couple of Formosa rock macaques. A guy I met later told me that the martens are very rare, endangered and I’d get a year’s luck for each one!
I had intended to go back down the way I came and then to the east coast and beautiful Hualien (it has a piece of my heart). But I was so cold, not thinking and I just went over the top and west to Puli. Holding on as well as I could, descending madly until about 2,200m and a 7-11. I sat in the washroom running water over my hands until they came around.
After that, just a beautiful 40k descent to my hotel room. Not a long day at all but lots of climbing. Early hotel room and plenty of fried stinky tofu that gave me a nice glow, ready for the next day. This well produced video shows you the route I did, Day 1 and 2.
Day 4. Puli - Sun Moon Lake - Highway 172 - Tainan.
I set out early and after a good amount of climbing (surprised me!), I crested a mountain and boom! A beautiful mountain lake. I thought I was in Europe, so tidy, well kept. The sun was just coming up, it was gorgeous with a capital everything. I followed a garbage truck blaring loud classical music. It would stop and the locals, having heard the music, would be there waiting, throwing their garbage into the back. No garbage men needed!
I circled the lake and then exited, descending to the west coastal plains of Taiwan.
It was a stunning day, wide shoulders, heading west then mostly south. My destination was Tainan. I’d heard lots about this former capital city, full of history and romance. However, I was enjoying the ride so much, I missed a turn on Route 3 and started going up and up and up.
I’m not one to turn around so I just kept riding. At first I was cursing, I thought I was out of the bloody mountains! But it was gorgeous, for a few hours, just a car or two. AND it was coffee country. I have a huge interest in coffee so it filled my soul completely, as I climbed and sweated and finally got a beautiful descent as a reward. The best memory of the trip. Travel truly really begins once you’ve gotten lost and just submitted to this fact.
Day 5. Tainan - Chiayi
I woke up late and spend the morning exploring Tainan. It was ok but really just another busy city. Fortunately, my hotel was right on a huge, central park. I spent time watching the locals and taking in the whole culture, just “being there”, lost in translation. These ladies walked around and around this tree, hand raised, facing each other. For about 30 minutes. Anyone know what this is about? Animism? A ritual?
I got back on the bike for a short day and then put the bike on a train. Yes, you can transport your bike on trains in Taiwan! It’s super easy. Local trains, you will buy a ticket for your bike (half price) and use the last car. Express trains, you’ll have to put a bag over your bike and take the wheels off. But it is all fairly easy to do and manage. Just be sure to ask at the train stations. One nice thing about Taiwan compared to most of Asia - younger people are more likely to speak English than anywhere else. I don’t know why exactly but Taiwan is doing something right in terms of English language education.
Day 6. Coast. Back into Taipei.
A long day of headwind. Not too beautiful either, this part of Taiwan, the west coast is very industrial, wind swept and full of highways, factories, warehouses, industrial blight.
I felt like I was riding uphill, steeper than Wuling Pass! But finally, I got past Hsinchu and finally a few hours later hit the Tamsui River which runs into Taipei. It was a relief to cross the red bridge to the north side of the river and hit the bike path. From there, finally out of traffic and a hassle free ride back to the bike shop to drop off the bike.
My hair, my face, were all covered in dust. It was a rough day. But a happy one! I had done what I’d set out to do. Discover Taiwan by bike. I came. I cycled. I conquered.
Next trip, I’ll do the east coast. The most beautiful for last.
I’ve left a lot out - so much to say and I’ll return to the topic of Taiwan soon, you betcha.
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